Italian vegetable leather preview spring/summer 2005

15 June 2004

Vera Pelle Italiana Conciata Al Vegetale, the Genuine Italian Vegetable-Tanned Leather Consortium, have unveiled their spring/summer 2005 leathers at Natural Sensations, a series of various events around the world, including New York, Tokyo, Florence and Paris. The consortium's 31 tanners all showcased their interpretations of the three main trends designed by Angelo Uslenghi, trend expert and member of the fashion trade organisation Moda In. The presentations featured three different concepts: Genuine (showing a sense of peace), Festive (showing uncontrollable joy) and Enigmatic (showing the strength of seduction). Genuine is described as a modern interpretation of nature at its pure state. Colours are neutral, natural, therapeutic, material-like, landscapist, biological and evergreen. The leathers reproduce the effects of spring water with their transparency, opacity, smooth, slippery and wet-look surfaces touched by beams of light. Leathers are mostly medium-to-thick cow hides; full grain; traditional workmanship; drumming, nappa-like; vegetable dyes; pure aniline finish; natural glossing, glazing. Festive is an exuberant vitality accompanied by a creative whim. The colours are sparkling, flavoursome, almost tasty and refreshing, vitaminic, pictorial, solar and commemorative. The leathers recall an atmosphere of folklore festivals, following the ethnic theme and art of the local crafts, alternating vivacious colours, multi-coloured mosaic effects and reproductions of coats-of-arms. Leathers are mostly medium-to-thick cow hides; soft feel; grazed appearance, nubuck treatment; dyeing, colouring, multiple padding; xerography, transfer designs, decal. Enigmatic is a mysterious charm and strong emotions. Colours are intense, shadowy, passion throbbing, mysterious, twilight and sometimes bewitching. The sensual atmosphere is evoked with pearly, smooth, almost skin-like surfaces, hazy effects with padding and graduated tones, plays of light and dark and satin effects. Leathers are mostly full grain leather, nappa finish, flounced; waxing, glossing with amber; shiny and dull effects; use of aniline to darken, shade, tone down; embossings and engravings. Mani Toscane, a photographic exhibit, was also held alongside the Natural Sensations events. The exhibition was organised by the Genuine Italian Vegetable-Tanned Leather Consortium on the occasion of the tenth anniversary of their founding and was said to be an exciting journey to discover the colours and flavours of the Tuscan region's talent. The exhibition presented the 'Master Hands' of the Tuscan people, hands that, through the ages, have belonged to some of the world's greatest artists such as Sandro Botticelli and Frencesco Botticini, as well as those of the greatest artisans such as the master vegetable-tanned leather crafters, photographed by Marco Lanza.

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