At press time, samples from global exhibitors were pouring into New York for the Première Vision (PV) and Lineapelle July shows to exhibit the autumn/winter fashion trends for 2018–19. Although both shows are in Manhattan on the same days, they are miles apart physically – Lineapelle will take place at the Metropolitan Pavilion in Chelsea, while PV is to occupy Pier 94 on the Hudson in Midtown – and spiritually as the former, launched in 2001 by Lineapelle, the renowned international exhibition dedicated to leather, accessories and components, concentrates exclusively on European and international producers of leather for shoes, handbags and leather goods, leatherwear, upholstery and car interiors.
PV is no less prestigious in terms of exclusiveness, but the leather offering is relatively new to the New York shows and is still finding its voice amid the other offerings that have traditionally been dominated by fabric, manufacturing and accessories. If history, albeit brief, is any guide, however, the strong contingent of European, Brazilian and Turkish tanners will build on its momentum. PV’s flagship Paris show in February and September every year also helps to raise its profile in the highly sought after North American market.
Exhibitors are scrambling to submit their latest leather developments for the winter season, which will be hand-picked to show the most emblematic and exciting statement of where the industry is headed. These samples will be displayed in the Première Vision Forum to tell the story of the new season’s trends.
On trends
Back in the epicentre of New York’s contemporary art district, Lineapelle will again feature a Trend Area at the entrance of the fair to provide visitors with an immediate and comprehensive summary of the latest collections on show, and it will direct them to the most suitable suppliers on site.
Sneak previews of the latest trends and highlights are provided during a series of ‘Trend Presentations’, and there will be a ‘Know your leather’ seminar on 19 July to shed light on raw materials with an overview of the most frequently used hides and skins, and the products into which they are generally applied. The leathermaking process will also be addressed, from preparation to the main tanning systems, and post-tanning operations (retanning, dyeing and colours, and fatliquoring) and finishing (effects, techniques and achievable properties).
Tutorials on the different commercial types of leather will also be covered in terms of how to differentiate finished articles (nubuck, suede, glazed, milled grain or laminated, for example) and appreciating various finishing techniques and fashion effects like laser cutting, cut-outs, puffing up, stitching, pleating and cracking.
