The leather industry is not unlike any other industrial sector when it comes to scrutiny from pressure groups and other NGOs. Such groups have attacked the timber, wool, feather, cotton and even the IT industries to name just a few. Their existence is a fact of life. It is down to us as an industry to neutralise their impact by engaging with organisations such as Greenpeace, not fight them.
Whether we like it or not, it is the major brands that have the real power in the leather industry and if they require their leather, for example, to meet restricted substances limits beyond what may be considered by most tanners to be reasonable or practical, then I’m afraid it’s just tough. Comply or risk losing the order.
The pressure groups and the NGOs are not going away and the brands will continue make sure that they are seen as squeaky clean when it comes to the environment, child labour and so on. Therefore, I would suggest that the best way forward is to talk with them, understand their concerns and make them see our side of the story. This is why the LWG is such a good thing for our industry. Not only have audited tanners markedly improved their environmental performance by meeting the LWG protocol but now they also have a direct dialogue with the brands and pressure groups. Four independent NGOs including the US based National Wildlife Federation have reviewed and accepted the LWG protocol along with the brands and the tanners. By engaging in the protocol process the ability of the pressure groups to complain has been neutralised.
I do agree with Ron Sauer that proof of source and traceability of hides from Brazil (particularly around the Amazon) is going to be a very difficult system to police and is open to abuse. But what is the alternative? It is my understanding that if a traceability system was not introduced quickly then several leading brands would have stopped sourcing ANY Brazilian hides and that would have had a major impact the local industry. Once again the LWG hide traceability project has taken the pressure off and Greenpeace support it. They can’t blame the leather industry anymore.
Away from the LWG which is focused specifically towards the environment, the Leather Naturally! concept conceived by Mike Redwood is gathering momentum. An event is being planned to raise the profile of this international, non-political, non-commercial campaign sometime around the ACLE show in Shanghai. Watch this space!
Leather Naturally! has the potential, if properly funded, to help and improve the leather industry in a similar way to how the LWG has and so much more. A well-funded campaign can be used to educate designers, consumers and promote leather as the material we all know and love for the benefit of everyone. If successful, Leather Naturally! will benefit the whole leather supply chain. I say three cheers to that and welcome the modern, realistic and progressive thinking for our industry that comes with it.
Martin Ricker Editor
mricker@leathermag.com
